Linen is one of the most-loved fabrics in Australia, and for good reason: it is breathable, hard-wearing, and only gets softer with age. But "linen" is not one single fabric. It comes in different weaves, weights, blends and finishes, and the type you choose makes a real difference to how your project turns out. This complete guide walks through the main types of linen fabric, what each is best for, and how to pick the right one.

What is linen?

Linen is a natural fibre made from the flax plant. It is stronger than cotton, highly breathable and absorbent, and famously cool to wear, which is exactly why it suits a warm climate. It has a signature slightly textured, slubby surface, softens beautifully with every wash, and creases naturally, a look many people love rather than avoid. As a renewable, biodegradable fibre, it also sits well with more sustainable wardrobes.

If you check one thing before buying linen, make it the weight. Weight, not weave, is what decides whether a linen suits a floaty dress or a structured jacket.

Types of linen by weave

The weave affects a linen's texture, drape and best use:

• Plain weave linen: the most common, an even, versatile weave used for most clothing and everyday linen.
• Loose or open weave linen: airier and more relaxed, lovely for breezy summer pieces and light curtains.
• Damask linen: a patterned, jacquard-style weave, traditionally used for table linen and decorative pieces.
• Sheeting linen: a smoother, more tightly woven linen made for bedding.

Types of linen by weight

Weight is measured in grams per square metre (GSM) and is the most practical way to choose linen:

• Lightweight (around 150 GSM and under): soft and slightly sheer, ideal for blouses, floaty dresses and warm-weather layers.
• Medium weight (around 180 to 250 GSM): the most versatile, great for shirts, dresses, trousers and skirts.
• Heavyweight (around 250 GSM and up): structured and durable, suited to jackets, upholstery, cushions and homewares.

Matching the weight to your project is the single biggest factor in whether a make sits and drapes the way you imagined.

Pure linen vs linen blends

Linen is often blended with other fibres, and each option has its place:

• 100% linen: the most breathable, with the classic texture and cool feel. It wrinkles the most and can be a little firmer to sew.
• Linen-cotton: softer, more affordable and less prone to creasing, and a good choice for beginners.
• Linen-viscose or linen-rayon: adds extra drape and softness for more fluid garments.
• Linen-wool: brings a little warmth for trans-seasonal pieces.

Choose pure linen for authenticity and maximum breathability, and a blend when you want easier care, softer handle or a lower price. If you like the fluid feel of a blend, our guide to rayon vs viscose explains the fibre that adds that drape.

Washed vs unwashed linen

You will often see linen described as washed, stonewashed or softened. Washed linen has been pre-treated to relax and soften the fabric before you buy it, so it feels wonderful straight away, drapes more, and has a lived-in, less crisp look. Unwashed linen starts crisper and firmer and softens over time with use. Washed linen is especially popular for garments and bedding, while crisper linen holds structure well for tailored pieces and homewares.

A note on linen origin

You may also come across linen described by origin, such as European, Belgian or Irish linen. These regions have long reputations for high-quality flax and finishing, and the label is often used as a marker of quality. It is a useful signal, but weave, weight and finish still tell you more about how a specific linen will behave in your project than origin alone.

How to choose the right linen

Put it all together and choosing linen is straightforward. Start with the project and pick a weight to match, then decide between pure linen or a blend based on how much softness and easy care you want, and finally choose washed for instant softness or crisp for structure. As with any fabric, check the width before you compare prices, and if colour matters, a swatch is always worth it.

How to care for linen

Linen is easy to live with. Most linen can be machine washed on a gentle, cool cycle and line or flat dried, and it softens a little more each time. Pure linen may shrink slightly on the first wash, so pre-washing your fabric before cutting is wise. Embrace the natural creasing, or press with a warm iron while slightly damp for a smoother finish. Always follow the care details on your specific fabric.

Ready to choose? Browse our full linen collection to see the weaves, weights and washed linens in stock, and pair it with cotton for easy-care makes.

Linen buying FAQs